Trailer brake torture

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    Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 2:02pm
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Gents, I'm now looking for someone to sort out my trailer brakes (again) and with enough experience to advise me on what I should do.  I have used BL before if he is still around in Mt Albert, or is there someone closer to Hibiscus Coast?

I have a 1997 Haines Hunter SF650 on the standard DMW trailer. My regular mechanic has just replaced the coupling and adjacent piston (which was definitely needed) and sent me on my way. Long story short, I left on Friday with brakes disengaged 'cos I didn't trust them, but the pads were still wearing on the discs and getting pretty hot so at Bombay Hills I stopped and checked them, and with wheels jacked up I tried the brakes which just locked up hard (surprise surprise), so I unbolted them and took them off. Fortunately I also noticed a badly worn hydraulic hose as I did this - rubbing on the tyre (FFS!).  The calipers are regular hydraulic cast iron Trojans. Now, one brake piston is fully extended.  At least 1 pad has come off its plate and there is rust around the plates etc.  

Hopefully others can learn from this. Owning a boat with a braked trailer has proven to be sustained torture. A mate just recently suggested spraying them with lanolin spray to stop the deterioration between uses, which I will now do, so yeah more responses regarding CRC and spraying are not gunna help at this stage, but I will do this in future.

So, I figure I should just throw these 5 y/o brake calipers away and buy new stainless ones, and spray the F### out of them when I use them. Or is there a better way?  Who REALLY knows about this stuff and will do this for me, and NOT send me on my merry way at risk of an accident because they are too lazy to test things when they have wound in the last bolt?  


As if that wasn't enough for the weekend, the Audi Q7 spazzed out the trailer rear and riding lights - they all go fine but then it concludes there's a problem so it just goes and switches them off after a minute, just to stuff up the night good and proper .... good thing the wife and kids brought their headlights - I had riding lights and rear lights, plus brakes and blinkers which still worked. Apparently this is likely to be a fuse (?) - so back to Conti's for an ass-pounding no doubt.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote ohsif Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 2:09pm
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Hosking Trailers in Albany. They will do the job for you, or supply the parts if you want to do the job yourself. Mark is a good bugga and only uses top quality components.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 3:14pm
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Stainless steel calipers will be an improvement.  There is a lot to be said for stainless hoses too although no hose should be left rubbing a wheel.

Cast steel and saltwater are not a good combination at all.  We see increased corrosion of the cast brake components on our caravan just from camping at surf beaches.

Another tip is to flush your brakes after you launch the boat.  A lot of corrosion can happen while we are out on the water and our trailers are sitting with salt water on them.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Joker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 3:38pm
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Mount a couple of cheap garden sprinklers (the round type) on the axle facing each wheel. Each connected to a piece of hose joined to a 1/2" "Y" and this in turn to a piece of hose with a normal connecter.

Then connect to a hose and then you will be able to give them a really good rinse each time.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tugboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 3:46pm
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Think your problems are pretty common mate, i dreaded going for a warrant every year, i new it meant brake overhaul, disk skimmed, pads changed, you gota be using the thing everyday to keep em running and we all know thats never gona happen!! I always washed mine after use never made any difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 5:09pm
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Even with stainless calipers and stainless pistons u will still get binding on boat trailers if not VERY well maintained.
The issue is similar to stainless outboard steering cables.. what happens is salt water gets in behind the piston rubber seal , and evaporates leaving deposits of salt.. this stuff then compacts and binds the pistons in the calipars... and screws the piston O ring
Corrosion  is not the issue.
As to having brake lines rubbing on ANYTHING.. be it a tyre or chasis what ever that is a HUGE NO NO... or put another way... incompetence. regardless if a car trailer what ever....AND instant fail for a WoF.

Any respectable workshop can do trailer  brakes, doesnt need to be a trailer shop specialist... its no rocket science stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote edge01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 6:12pm
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ive had Kodiak stainless rotors and calipers on my trailer for 5 years, two new sets of pads and one set of bearings is all that I have done. its funny I hear all these horror stories but ive just done routine maintenance and everything has been fine. come and see me snapper whisperer. ill get em sorted.

and no my boat trailer isn't a one swim a year warrior. it does high miles, beach launching, far north trips to paerengarenga where it doesn't get washed for a week at a time.

I wouldn't advise spraying anything on the disks at all. especially if it is oil based. you will never get it stopped ever again with those pads if you do
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Rotate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 6:42pm
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Quote I wouldn't advise spraying anything on the disks at all. especially if it is oil based. you will never get it stopped ever again with those pads if you do

 
yea i was reading and that was first thing that came to mind.dont spray brakes with anything other then brake clean as otherwise you are just contaminating the pads
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mike_e Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 7:15pm
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I just take my regular calipers off at start of every season, cost me about a hundy to get both recond
then just make sure they get a good soaking in freshwater after every saltwater dunking. Happy Days
If you can go home and pull a $100 bill out , and flush it down the toilet, and if that doesn't bother you, then go ahead and buy a boat
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 7:27pm
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I have pulled the rubber boots off my calipers, the ones around the piston, and filled the boots with castor grease before re assembling. Keeps the salt out nicely. A strip and clean before every season keeps them working fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Muzzfishing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2014 at 7:36pm
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My only bit of advice is not to have trailer brakes unless you really have too. We had brakes on all 4 wheels I got quite good at servicing the brakes and changing the pads usually every 8 - 12 months due to corrosion problems. Now have a boat and trailer that does not need brakes.
    A Good Skipper Keeps the water on the outside of the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2014 at 10:29am
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Originally posted by Shrekky Shrekky wrote:

I have pulled the rubber boots off my calipers, the ones around the piston, and filled the boots with castor grease before re assembling. Keeps the salt out nicely. A strip and clean before every season keeps them working fine.

Im not sure what the "caster grease" is.. but using brake brease .. if different would be a better choice

And as to spraying brakes as mentioned above... yep brake cleen on anything where may contact the pads/ disc, as suggested.....brake grease on sliders

But if sevicing, disabling to pack behind the seals with brake grease as a barrier.  and the slider O rings....CRC .. so long as doest get to the pads in large quantities  is the best to lift and remove any salt desposits......brake cleen doesnt seem to break up and flush the salt deposits as well..
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