connecting a bilge pump
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Category: General Forums
Forum Name: The Boat Shed
Forum Description: Discuss all things boating.
URL: https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=73835
Printed Date: 29 Jul 2026 at 7:55pm
Topic: connecting a bilge pump
Posted By: NZfrnd
Subject: connecting a bilge pump
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 11:51am
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I was soo looking forward to having a small break (till jan 10th) and look at Auckland weather! ^%#&%# ...i guess all boaties would be doing some diy jobs at this time..i am planning to install a bilge pump. i bought an automatic bilge pump from smart marine, along with the flippin hose which i thought was way over priced! anyway, do i buy a switch like this one and run the cables from the back of the boat to control switch?  also when fixing the pump to the base of the boat, do i just screw it down on to the fibreglass bottom? is there any type of screws that dont rust? i was fiddling with my handset for UHF radio and found all screws in it had rusted badly. huggy, CJ, u guys going out fishing any time soon? |
Replies:
Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 12:46pm
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Don't screw it, skiaflex it down in case you have to move it, you wont be left with holes to fill up. just remember if you leave the boat battery in it will go flat, as it is in auto and has power. and yes that's the one you need. i have a 2000gph one that can suck the balls of a gnome :) and i used twin core tinned cable to make it last longer, we did the whole boat out with tinned cable while we was at it. just need the carpet it out to finish it off. ------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow">  MH... Catch measure release...<*))))< |
Posted By: Catchit
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 5:53pm
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just remember if you leave the boat battery in it will go flat, as it is in auto and has power.or a small solar charger to keep it topped up ? ------------- "We gave Sir Peter a knighthood," Mr Key said, "And if we could give him a second one, we would." |
Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 8:25pm
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solar charger yerp bunnings have them cheap as chips and ready to go :) thanks forgot about the solar charger thing :) ------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> MH... Catch measure release...<*))))< |
Posted By: NZfrnd
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 9:03pm
| but it does have an off button, so shouldnt it cut the power off? i am becoming very depressed when looking at the weather forcast...what a waste of annual leave! |
Posted By: Blue Asparagus
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 11:02pm
mate I have one but I over rode it so it is on permanent with a fuse, now I am not 100% sure mate but if your in a trailer boat there is no drama turning it on when you start your trip and off when ya done, auto switches are mainly for moored boats with shaft seals or skin fittings that may just let go, unless it is running you wont use power and yes it has a wee light but nothing wire cutters wont sort, by all means fit one up no harm in it at all. ------------- Ultimate GAME Fishing Adventures. Northland |
Posted By: tobez
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 3:46pm
| dude chances are you have three wires, red black and other, probably brown with with stripe - that must be hard wired to your battery - it will not drain battery power unless the float switch is stuck on and youll hear the pump. the negative goes to your feed wire to the negative busbar behind the dash and the pos to the 'on' side of the switch - theres no need for a switch like that a standard on off switch is fine, the main pos feed from the battery or pos busbar to the off side of switch so when you turn it on it makes the circut - the whole idea of having an suto bilge pump is so u dont need to have it on auto, it should be on auto the whole time...sikaflex 291will do the job of holding the bilge pump down any issues give us a tinkle 021 862948 |
Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 4:18pm
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What i ment was if left on auto, it will drain the power as you need power to keep it on auto so when it fills it will click the pump into gear. but thats how i see it ------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> MH... Catch measure release...<*))))< |
Posted By: Catchit
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 4:46pm
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NZfrd, is your boat on a mooring or a trailer ? ------------- "We gave Sir Peter a knighthood," Mr Key said, "And if we could give him a second one, we would." |
Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 5:46pm
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Why not do away with all the fancy wiring - toggle switch and all - and install a "float switch" alongside the pump? That way the pump will only turn on when there is sufficient water in the sump to activate the switch. Similarly when the water level drops, the float switch turns itself off. This is what I am going install in my boat sometime soon... ------------- Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat.... |
Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 6:53pm
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guy with a fancy inboard engine at whakatane with a dam find boat, had the same setup you just typed old, problem was it didn't do as it was told to do and promptly filled with water to half way up the engine before they found the problem..leaking bung was the source of water drying out the engine wa sthe other problem ------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> MH... Catch measure release...<*))))< |
Posted By: NZfrnd
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:03pm
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catchit, mine is a trailer boat catchit, a sea nymph wasp. olfart, this is what i bought http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/automatic-bilge-pump-500gph-12v-19mm-outlet-p-12709.html - http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/automatic-bilge-pump-500gph-12v-19mm-outlet-p-12709.html apparently it didnt need the float switch!
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Posted By: Olfart
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:08pm
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NZfrnd: I only have a standard bilge pump on my tub (Buccaneer 510) controlled by an on/off switch. So was thinking it might be good to add a float switch (about $29) just to be safe in case of an unwanted ingress of water....e.g. from a leaking bung for example...
But then again, maybe a complete unit like you have may be a better option. ------------- Semper in excreta sumus, solum profundum variat.... |
Posted By: Damo
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 9:19pm
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you can also wire in a car horn ($5 from a wrecker) Good if you cant see your bilges or dont have a warning light on the dash. This has saved my cookies before.
------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> www.charterconnection.co.nz Facebook: Diversity-Fishing |
Posted By: Blue Asparagus
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:40pm
Damo how does this work, I am in that boat so to speak and just run a float switch, is the horn just a warning the pump cant keep up or just to let you know the pump has operated. ------------- Ultimate GAME Fishing Adventures. Northland |
Damo wrote:Posted By: NZfrnd
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:58pm
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i thought buying the bilge pump would be the last thing i would wana do for the boat right now, but wait...i got to spend more...now that i bought the switch, i would need cables, from switch to the battery and the unit to the switch, so which is what...about 10 m of cable? and where do i get this skiaflex glue? does it come in like a small tube or so? on a positive note, took my lil one to the movie theaters for the first time in her life..with a large popcorn, we managed to keep her entertained thru the movie..happy feat 2 :) |
Posted By: Damo
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 9:06am
lets you know its on....we used them on our fishing boats. During the day the stereo would be blasting and the winches grinding away youd never here the little alarms so we swapped them out for car horns. Saved my bacon once when a rudder gland let go out off Cuvier. For a pleasure carft you can use the reversing signal alarms too - they are bit less agricultura  l------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> www.charterconnection.co.nz Facebook: Diversity-Fishing |
Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 2:30pm
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I like the idea of the float switch on my boat when overnighting, if it comes on i would probably hear it and get up to see what is going on. Some pumps come with a built in float switch, some dont. Keep it simple, run a decent sized wire from a switch on the dash to the pump and earth the pump negative back to the battery. Use heatshrink over joins in wires wherever you can. ------------- you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while... |
Posted By: kinger
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 2:21pm
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As a little add on to this. (please excuse me). I'm taking on a little water through the keel strip on my old Clyde Craft 4eleven. It's got a sealed flotation chamber. Can I mount a pump with a hose inlet via a bulkhead fitting o the cabin floor, or do I HAVE TO cut a hole and fit it inside the hull.
It's trailered, and rarely out for more than six hours, so just on/off wiring is needed.
Alternatively, as I don't have the means to lift the boat off the trailer, what would be a reasonable cost for a yard to lift it and reseal the bottom.
Thanks.
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Posted By: Busted!
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 2:50pm
The 'normal' way of wiring bilge pumps is either completely manual (i.e. switch on/off) or auto/manual/off.
The wiring for the auto manual and off (2-way) circuit is pretty easy, you need a 3-position switch usually 1-off-2 where you would make 1 auto, off off (obviously) and 2- manual-on. The wiring is as this, common negative to battery from bilge pump, positive supply to switch (fused), two wires - one from each of poles 1 and 2 from the switch to the bilge pump. Wire 1 runs through the float switch, wire two runs direct to the pump.
This way, if the float switch fails to close (not uncommon as they are notoriously unreliable beasties) you still have a manual override position so that you can lock the pump on and pump out, and if the float switch fails to open (pump refuses to switch off) you can manually switch the pump off and prevent it burning out...
The bilge alarm horns are a requirement for survey and are usually permanently wired up on a seperate float switch (positive wire to fuse-horn-float switch and neg to battery) so that they cannot be switched off by accident. The second alarm float is normally positioned about 100mm or so ABOVE the bilge pump float switch to provide room for the bilge pump to operate without triggering the alarm/horn, and so that boat rolling won't trigger the alarm either.
Other considerations with fitting a bilge pump, include putting it somewhere that you can get to it to clean fishing line and debris out of it and service it, and placing the outlet as high up out from under the gunwales as you can. If there is a long outlet hose, and a small bilge compartment you might need to use a non-return to prevent the water in the hose backflooding through the pump into the compartment and closing the float switch again. This cyclic on/off due to water movement into and out of the hose has sunk several boats due to burning out pumps and flattening batteries. It's a good idea to fit a non-return in any event to prevent any crap that makes it through the pump from draining back through and stopping the works...
Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should a bilge pump outlet exit below the waterline, as the skin fitting can clog with fouling or the non-return fail and a siphon set up which can sink your boat...
As far as a 'sealed compartment' that fills up, I would look to getting it repaired at the earliest and the cost depends entirely on the amount of damage. Or, fit a through-bulkhead hose fitting with sikaflex so that it remains sealed, and a decent watertight hatch with a gland to run wiring etc so you can get to the pump...
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Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 4:02pm
Kinger - my first boat was a 13'6" Clyde Craft (in 1979). It was already a bit old then, so I guess yours is a decent age by now. Don't see too many around any more. You can take your own boat off the trailer really easily and put it on some blocks so you can get under it and seal the strip. A boat that size is an easy one man job. Much easier than you probably think.
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Posted By: kinger
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 4:22pm
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Cheers for that. I've been thinking about strapping it up on the beams in the carport and using galvanised sealant. Will that do the job?
Do I need to remove the strip and give a full under seal, or just a bead down the edges?
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Posted By: Tagit
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 4:42pm
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Kinger - Not sure about the carport idea unless it is really strong. Just put some blocks under the keel and slide the boat back off the trailer (actually once the keel is on the first block you are really pulling the trailer forward from under the boat). Put some blocks under the chines to steady it and you are ready to go. You can use tyres as well to do the same thing. Assuming that the leak is around the screws that hold the keel strip in place, remove the keel strip and put good amounts of 'Sikaflex' marine sealant in all the screw holes before screwing the keel strip back on. If the damage is more severe, you may need someone with some knowledge to look at putting some extra glass and resin on as a repair. I am assuming for now that someone has used overlength screws to secure the keel strip at some stage and this is your leak.
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Posted By: Don18025
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 9:18pm
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Kinger, do not forget to look closely at the screws holding the bung fitting to the hull. Remove the fitting and follow Tagits advise with Sikaflex and reseal it. Leaky bung fittings can cause your problem as well, so make sure it is in good condition especially the rubber seal on the bung.. |
Posted By: kinger
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 9:27pm
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I recently change both bungs/housings, and after the trip to Coro filled the cavity with our home hose and closed it up to find the leak.
Pretty sure it's the screws that are leaking, so will hit it with galvanised rather than silicon.
Also looking at a long reach bilge pump to cover all bases.
Cheers for your help guys.
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Posted By: CanadianJohn
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 10:02pm
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kinger, could the water be coming through from on top somewhere? reason i ask is on my fisrt trip out in my se nymph there was not a single drop when i took the bung out. second trip about 2 litres. i realized that with the heavy rain there are several holes in the floor that were there to mount things in the past and the ones holding the seats in are loose. theres been some serious rsin lately. |
Posted By: Big -Dave
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2012 at 12:13pm
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leaks from screws are all too common. try not to ever screw anything to your sealed bouyancy chambers. I have noticed a small amount of water in one of mine recently. I have also noticed water dripping out around the screw holding the keel strip on. As I have converted the trailer to multi rollers, I will probably remove it altogether and resin up the holes. ------------- you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while... |
Posted By: Jet_ski_fisher
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2012 at 1:07pm
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Off subject here, but why do a lot of builders and other sorts insist that screwing marine grade S/S screws into buoyancy chambers for seats and think nothing will happen cause they are still sealed. they are sealed for a reason...if it's alloy weld it down. ------------- http://www.legasea.co.nz" rel="nofollow"> MH... Catch measure release...<*))))< |
Posted By: letsgetem
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2012 at 1:49pm
| Reading about things happening with bilge pumps - I am coming to the view that perhaps bilge pumps are not a good idea. Fine in theory, but problems in practice. In my 4.1m boat, I have scuppers of the duck-bill pipe. They are not perfect by a long shot (let some water in, and slow to let water out), but possibly thats better than an unreliable bilge pump. |
Posted By: Busted!
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 9:57am
| If they are set up right and maintained they are reliable. That's the key... |
Posted By: kinger
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 11:30am
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Thanks for the help fellas.
I pulled out the 4mm machine steel screws that were fitted, and replaced them with #10 wood screws, all holes pre injected and then the screws wet with sikaflex.
The keel strip let nothing in. It had a good test as my ute and trailer were stolen from the ramp so the boat had to sit in a mate's berth til I could sort a pick up the next day.
There's still a dribble from somewhere into the battery tray, but that's coming from above. I think I know where it is, so now's probably a good time to seal the rest of it up. As it is, the current bilge pump gets a five to ten second run about every half an hour and more than keeps up with it.
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Posted By: NZfrnd
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 4:26am
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gosh! people are stealing stuff left right and center! hopefully ur insurance is good enough to replace everything. Kinger,are you in auckland? where did you buy skiaflex from? how much did it cost? did you buy the 291?
i still havnt got around to put in the pump yet, &^%*% weather ! thought i would clean the garage and park the boat inside now that i am confident in reversing, only to find that the blimmin boat wont fit in the garage! sigh!
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Posted By: kinger
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 7:59am
| I'm in Taupo mate, and just popped into a boat yard, they sold me about 1/4 of a cartridge for 10 bucks. Plenty more than I needed. |
Posted By: bratman
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 1:21pm
love the comments  any good skilled boatbuilder can install a bulge pump correctly for you. I will fit bulge pumps free at my boat shed all you need to do is supply the hose, skin fitting, pump, float switch, switch and for a few $ i will supply the tinned wire. ------------- composite.plus marine 021 033 2495 email [email protected] |
Posted By: NZfrnd
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 9:03am
finally thanks to bratman (a huge mega one that is !) i finally have the bilge pump sorted! its a job not just well done, but superbly done!    |
Posted By: Kunegone
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2016 at 6:02pm
| Hello all, I also have 13,6 seven eleven clyde craft 1974, taking on water, as to original question can hole to bottom cavity be cut as to have bilge pump on bottom of hull, thanks in advance |